Our journey to the Andaman & Nicobar Islands started from Vadodara to Chennai (Madras) by train. At the airport, during check in we were informed that due to the bad weather the last three days, our flight had been rescheduled for 10:00 a.m. (original time 06:45 flight). Luckily, we were accommodated on the flight scheduled to leave at 0530, reaching Port Blair at 07:30, a flying time of two hours. The airport at Port Blair was officially inaugurated by the Home Minister Shri L.K. Advani on 2nd May 2002, and is called "Veer Sarvarkar" airport. As the Navy controls the airspace, all flights to Port Blair are in the early morning, with the Navy taking control after 10:00 a.m. On reaching Hotel Sinclair, we were greeted by the view of the Bay of Bengal from our room window - in fact all rooms at Sinclair face the sea - and one can see ships passing by. Below our room we could see a "seawater" swimming pool half finished (the authorities in their wisdom had not given them further permission to complete the pool). Nonetheless, one could still go down and during high tide, have a "bath" sitting there.
The Andaman and Nicobar Islands, comprising 572 islands, are strategically located as far as India is concerned and are also important for the timely arrival of the monsoon both for India and neighbouring countries of the South East like Myanmar, Thailand etc (Both these countries are quite close from here). Unfortunately, the monsoon last year has not been adequate despite the lush green cover visible and hence water rationing was in force at the hotel. The monsoon, which normally arrives in April, had not yet started till the middle of May, though we faced rains every evening. It is heartening to note that the Supreme Court of India has banned the felling of trees in these Islands.
All along the coast one can see bunkers built by the Japanese. Hotel Sinclair has one on its property that they open in the evenings for viewing.
It is said that because of the penal settlement here, the nickname "Kalapani" (black water) came to be given to these islands. However, I personally feel that another reason could be that since the colour of the water is greenish, the light reflecting from it makes it appear dark, making the "Kalapani".
Sight Seeing - Local
Port Blair is quite small in area, one could easily walk around it. A rickshaw from Sinclairs to the Aberdeen Bazaar costs Rs.10/- (haggle), while the return trip costs Rs.15/-. The tourist department at Teal House, conducts sight seeing tours at a nominal charge. However, the city tour can be done independently by hiring a taxi or rickshaw from Aberdeen Bazaar. Scooters are also available for hire. We were able to hire a rickshaw for about Rs.60/- per hour. The first place on the itinerary was the Forest Museum (Free entrance). Unfortunately due to a power failure we could not see the artefacts properly.
The principal timber tree of Andaman & Nicobar is the "Paduk", 120' high and 14' in width. It varies in colour from light brown to reddish brown, rich red or crimson. It is believed to be superior to teak, and not harmed by water. It is found only in Andaman and some parts of Indonesia.
After this we covered Samudrika Museum set up by the Navy. This is divided into five viewing rooms (1) Introductory section on A & N Islands (2) Shells, (3) Corals, (4) Oceanic Regime (5) Marine Archaeology. One can buy books, a CD ROM (Rs.200/-) on Andaman & Nicobar Islands, & photographs from here. This museum is closed on Mondays and National holidays. Charges Rs.10/- Adult, Rs.5/- Child, Camera Rs.25/- Video Camera Rs.45/-
Giant Clam
Next, on to the Fisheries Museum (Adult Rs.2/-, Child Re1/- Video Camera Rs.25/-), Water Sports Complex (different tickets for the rides), Cellular Jail (Adult Rs.2/-, Child Rs.1/- Camera Rs.10/-) Sagarika - the Khadi and handicrafts emporium, and the Anthropological Museum. Unfortunately, the last named was closed since they were shifting to another location. The Mini zoo at Haddo (Adult Rs.2/- Child Re1/-) has species native to these Islands like sea water crocodile, the majestic White Breasted Sea Eagle, Crab eating Macaque etc.
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| Deer At Ross Island |
Timings : The earliest opening is at the Mini zoo and Forest Museum at 8:00. The others open by 0900 hours. There is a two-hour lunch break at most places.
Sight Seeing - Other IslandsQuite a lot of the boats leave from Phoenix Bay jetty, a 15 minute walk from Aberdeen Bazaar for tours to the different islands.
Ross Island A 20 minute ride takes one to this Island established by the British about 100 years ago, and now a Navy establishment. The boat leaves the jetty at 0830, 1030, 1230 and 1430. Ross is a 70 acre island full of ruins of those ancient times, now being reclaimed back by nature. There are a number of bunkers on Ross, and you can go down inside one of them. There are about 200 deer roaming freely around the island and one can easily walk up to them. Though now closed, there is also an underground tunnel from Ross leading right up to Port Blair under the sea. One winds up the visit there by seeing the small museum.
Going by the last boat, gives you about two hours since the boat comes to pick you up around 1645. We saw and met Air Marshall Asthana who had also come for a visit along with his wife. And since Ross Island is a naval establishment, he was without his security guards, and thus a few of us including yours truly were able to get his autograph!!
| Charges Rs.30/- per person for the boat and Rs.20/- entrance fee per person at Ross Island (children free), Rs.10/- per head for the guide. No boat on Wednesdays. |
Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park - Wandoor
One can reach Wandoor by private bus (1 hour journey) from the bus stand near Aberdeen Bazaar. Two islands near here are Jolly Buoy and Redskin. Since no plastic in any form is allowed on these islands, if you are carrying any plastic bags/bottles you need to declare these by paying a deposit of Rs.50/-, on return, Re/1- is deducted. If required you can get a jute bag for your other belongings.
No food, water, tea etc is available and one needs to carry one's own. Changing rooms and toilet are available. The journey by boat is about half an hour.
The boats leave around 10:00 and return journey is around 1300. On reaching Redskin, (Jolly Buoy was closed due to bad weather) one is transferred to small motorboats that have a glass bottom to view the coral and sea life. Snorkelling gear is available for hire on the boat (Rs.50/-). For those who don't know swimming, a guide along with a float is also available (Rs.100/-). The corals are simply indescribable. Despite not wearing my prescription glasses, I was still able to make out the different corals and fishes. Facing the open sea, with your back to Redskin, you can view the corals on both your left and right. Personally, I know that the corals on the right were much better.
Cost : Redskin : Adult Rs.90/- Children Rs.45/-
Jolly Buoy : Adult Rs.125/- Child Rs.60/-
You also need to buy a separate permit (Rs.30/-, camera charges Rs.25/-) |
Cellular Jail
This of course needs to be mentioned separately. It is now a National Memorial. It has seven wings with cells that housed the freedom fighters. The British thought about building this jail after India's First War of Independence. Subhash Chandra Bose was also a "guest" here. The cell that was occupied by Veer Sarvarkar is also marked. The food served to the prisoners was simply appalling with the 'daal' full of insects; two small tins of water was available for drinking but only by holding one's nose could one drink from the tin. Let alone the food, even the cells were tiny only 13 feet by 7 feet, with no toilets. The artifacts gallery has on display the various dresses the prisoners wore when meted out with any punishment, how they were chained etc. The Son-et-Lumiere or the Sound and Light Show should not be missed. Due to the daily evening rains, we were afraid of missing the show, but fortunately on the last day there was no rain, and we were able to see it. The show begins with a brief historical reference to the Andaman and Nicobar Islands by the "wandering spirit of the Cellular Jail".
The spirit along with the centuries old "Peepal Tree" in the compound takes us on a journey through the dark times when freedom fighters were incarcerated in inhuman conditions, facing inhuman torture at the hands of the jailor David Barrie. But despite all the punishment and uneatable food and undrinkable water, the spirit of the freedom fighters was undeterred.
Cellular Jail
Tickets are Adult Rs.20/-; Child Rs.10/-. The Hindi show is from 6:15 p.m. and the English show from 7:00 p.m.
Corbyn's Cove The only beach on Port Blair and is about 6 Kms. from town. Changing rooms are provided here, and also a couple of resorts - Peerless and Hornbill Nest.
Havelock Island
It is around 6 hours by boat from Phoenix Bay Jetty via Neil Island. The boat leaves at 6:30 a.m., and reaches Neil around 10:00. From Neil it reaches Havelock around 12:00 noon. The tourism department provides accommodation at Dolphin Resort, transport from and to the jetty as well as to Radhanagar Beach. Since there is only one boat during the day (except Sundays), you need to stay overnight. The tickets from Port Blair need to be purchased one day in advance (Rs.9/- per person); as well as hotel booking from Teal House.
On reaching Dolphin Resort, and checking in, one needs to give their lunch order. Unfortunately, there are only about 5-6 items for lunch. Once lunch is over, you then give your order for dinner. Here the choice is more. After dinner you would be asked to place your order for next day's breakfast. Both vegetarian and non vegetarian food is available
As the resort prepares food based on your order, care needs to be taken while placing the orders since you may have to go hungry. The resort shows a documentary film on Andaman and Nicobar Islands around 6:30 in the evening. The resort faces Vijaynagar beach, where one can take a stroll at low tide.
In the morning we came to know that since the sea was quite rough, the ferry that was to leave Phoenix Bay jetty on Sunday for Havelock did not leave. Since the boat that dropped us at Havelock was coming from Rangat Island we were able to come back to Port Blair, but we were all really tossed around with quite a lot of people being sick.
On the return journey, a fellow shipmate standing near the door saw two dolphins jumping out of the water despite the rough sea and rains at that time. I was only lucky enough to see two flying fish, which at first I mistook for some small birds diving into the water, but when they did not come out, I realised that it could only be flying fish.
For those who are susceptible to seasickness, please take your medicine at the earliest to avoid throwing up your breakfast. Also avoid taking too much liquid.
Dolphin Resort: Accommodation is provided in individual huts. Standard Rs.500/-, Deluxe AC Rs.1000/- and VIP AC Rs.1500/-. Off season discount is available from 1st June to 30th September
Transportation charges: Jetty to Resort and back Rs.40/- Adult, Rs.20/- Child
Dolphin Resort to Radhanagar Beach and back Rs.40/- Adult, Rs.20/- Child
If you book a private vehicle from Port Blair for taking you to Dolphin Resort and the beach, the charges are Rs.600/-. |
Harbour Cruise/Viper Island You are directly taken to Viper Island, which was a jail and gallows before the Cellular Jail, was built. The name of the Island is taken from the name of the boat that used to bring the prisoners here. It was here on Viper Island that Sher Ali Khan a Pathan convict who assassinated Lord Mayo, the British Viceroy of India, was hanged. On the way you can see Chatham Island, which has Asia's largest Saw Mill. During our trip, we were also able to see one of the two floating dry docks belonging to the Navy (the other being in Mumbai). There is only one trip from 3 to 5 p.m., except Wednesday. Charges are Rs.90/- per person.
Statutory Warning: The Andaman & Nicobar Islands are not for late risers as the sun rises around 05:00 a.m.;sunset by 06:30 p.m.
Due to lack of time/bad weather, we could not visit Mount Harriet in South Andaman that has a good trekking trail; Rangat-Mayabunder-Diglipur islands a three-day and night trip, Cinque Island, Neil Island etc. The best time to visit Andamans, like Lakshadweep is from November onwards.
The aborigines that live on the Islands are Sentinalese, Jarawas, Onges and Great Andamanese on the Andamans, and Nicobarese and Shompens on the Nicobar group of Islands. The Sentinalese are even today hostile to strangers, whereas the Jarawas once hostile are slowly becoming friendly. The Onges and Great Andamanese have accepted the presence of outsiders, whereas the Shompens avoid contact and are non-hostile.
Addresses: Hotel Sinclairs Bay View: Tel (03192) 27937/27824, e-mail address : pblsinbview@sancharnet.in Web site : www.sinclairshotels.com
Andaman Teal House (Tourism Directorate) Rs.600/- AC room Rs.400/- Non AC.
Tel : 32642/34060
There are a number of other hotels and restaurants in town. Two that we tried were Annapurna and Ananda. The food both vegetarian and non vegetarian is good and the rates are reasonable. Though food at Ananda is a better. For fresh puffs, bread, cakes etc., visit Tillai's also in Aberdeen Bazaar.
Getting There
Air : Jet Airways has a daily flight from Chennai, Alliance Air operates on alternate days. From Kolkatta, only Alliance Air operates everyday except Friday.
Sea : Takes about 60 hours from Chennai (Madras) to Port Blair with a ship sailing every Friday.
Other relevant information can be obtained by logging on to www.andaman.nic.in |
Note : The rates & other details mentioned here are of 2002.
